While citric acid and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) are both naturally found in citrus fruits like lemons, they have completely different chemical and nutritional properties as well as benefits for the skin.  

Citric acid is an AHA.

AHAs are water-soluble, and so is vitamin C, but citric acid reacts with the skin in a completely different way. AHAs break down desmosomes, which are protein structures that hold together skin cells. More simply, AHAs like citric acid are an exfoliant. AHAs can also be hydrating, and they can pull moisture more deeply into the skin. On the other hand, vitamin C is not an exfoliant.

Both ingredients can improve the skin, but vitamin C is a nutrient.

Jumiso Vitamin C

Nutrients are special because they help with growth, development, and immune function. For instance, while both ingredients help with dark spots and hyperpigmentation, citric acid is not a nutrient.

So, vitamin C offers more continual benefits like increased collagen production, brightness, and skin elasticity. The topical application of nutrients cannot replace ingesting them, but applying them does impart benefits.

However, “the efficiency of topically applied vitamins is dependent upon good stabilization, concentration, and also who's using it.” More simply, topical nutrients have to be put in a good and stable formula to be effective, and they have to work for the person's skin.  

Citric acid is a stabilizer

Fortunately, chemistry and skincare have stabilizers like citric acid. Citric acid has the formula C6H8O7, and it is a weak organic acid that can make a product more alkaline (less acidic). Citric acid is often used to stabilize the pH of skincare products. It can be a great addition to vitamin C serums since vitamin C is actually an unstable ingredient. 

However, ascorbic acid’s reactivity is not always a bad thing. It is a powerful antioxidant, meaning it gives up some of its own electrons to damaging particles in the air or “free radicals.” That way, they don’t impact the skin. Vitamin C breaks down upon contacting a free radical so the skin can remain protected.

Vitamin C actually has many immune system benefits like collagen synthesis. The body cannot produce vitamin C on its own, making it even more essential. A deficiency of vitamin C leads to "scurvy." Scurvy can cause oral bleeding, mucous membrane bleeding, and compromised vision.

So, while citric acid and vitamin C could be considered similar, they actually have very different benefits to consider when building your skincare regimen. That’s why we love turning and learning those ingredients!

Nacific AHA BHA Balancing Mask Pack From Style Korean   $24

This sheet mask contains salicylic and citric acid which exfoliate and give a glow to the skin. This is a very gentle, but it's also effective and convenient. The Nacific sheet mask resurfaces the skin while improving dullness as well! 

Cover photo cred: Prexels