Dermaplanning is shaving the vellus hairs or “peach fuzz” off of your face. It also helps exfoliate the skin and resurface a new layer. You have to dermaplan on cleansed skin because it is actually more than the act of removing the peachy hairs. It also helps exfoliate the skin. If you have dry or dull skin or looking for something to resurface the skin, dermplaning is a good option, but there are a couple of things you need to know before you start dermaplaning.
The Right Tools
Versed Instant Gratification Dermaplanning Tool - $19.99
This tool is not large or heavy. It’s made of metal, and it’s hollow on the inside so it’s quite lightweight.
It’s reusable, and the ridges of the razors only get dull after 4 to 5 uses. However, you don’t have to replace the device. You only have to replace the blade. You get a razor and two blades for $19. The ridges of the blade have a much different texture than the cheap, plastic razors that many of us have used to maybe shape our eyebrows. They’re less scratchy on the skin because it actually takes the hairs and shaves them off as opposed to scratching the skin.
Of all of the blades that I’ve tried, this one has been the most protective. While using it, you should hold the skin taut (a bit stretched) and at a 45-degree angle. Don’t go in long-striding motions. Go in short little strokes when getting the hair. You’ll see how the peach hairs, dead skin, and residue start to come off of your face. The dead skin cells that your skin naturally desquamates (sheds/turns over) will come off on the razor, and then, you can wipe it clean. If your razor ends up wet, make sure you clean it nothing rust or forms.
Furthermore, there are dermaplaning razors that vibrate. However, the ones that vibrate can be really hard to control in regards to where it’s going. The instant gratification one from versed is nice because you actually have a little bit more control over the blade.
When using it, do not exfoliate over blemishes, open pimples, bumps, or moles, etc. We don’t want to cause more scarring. Be gentle to ensure that you’re not scratching the skin. You’ll still be removing those dead corneocytes and keratinocytes on the outer layer of your skin. As your skin exfoliates them naturally, dermaplaning will naturally speed up the process and reveal the glowing, supple skin underneath.
After this, you can put the safety cover on the razor, and apply your SPF.
Start off with clean skin.
When cleansing the skin, make sure you use the right cleanser for after dermaplanning. For example, Cassandra sometimes uses The Inky list Oat Cleansing Balm as well as a salicylic acid cleanser for her skin, but not if she’s about to dermaplan. The reason why is because this Oat Cleansing Balm almost leaves like a film on the face. Any of these cleansing balms add slip to the face, and unfortunately, that kind of oiliness doesn’t necessarily allow the dermaplaning razor to do its job. For example, the Inky list salicylic acid cleanser works really for acne, but salicylic acid is also exfoliating. If you’re using a dermaplaner to physically exfoliate, you don’t want to exfoliate with salicylic acid as well.
A good cleanser to use before dermaplaning is the Skinfix Barrier Plus Foaming Oil Cleanser. It’s super gentle on the skin, but it gets the skin clean. It leaves no oily residue. It doesn’t have anything exfoliating in it, and it’s the perfect prep for face shaving. After you cleanse, it’s better not to apply a serum or any moisture.
Skinfix Barrier Plus Foaming Oil Cleanser - $28
The ideal way to use a dermaplaner is on dry skin. Keeping things dry stops the blade from getting rusty, and as mentioned before, you want to hold the skin taut especially if you have any wrinkles or any scars. You don’t want this blade to knick them.
Moisturize
When you dermaplan for the first time, it’s great to apply a face mask after. I would recommend a soothing or hydrating serum-type mask - something that is non-irritating and non-exfoliating just to make sure we know what we’re dealing with. Then, go in with a moisturizer to locks in that hydration.
Zitsticka Press Refresh is a great hydrator after dermaplaning. It’s a hydrogel, and it has acne-fighting ingredients like niacinamide, allantoin, and graphene. However, it does have some exfoliating acids. It’s also a mild form of physical exfoliation.
Zitsticka Press Refresh - $36
Right after your face is freshly exfoliated, you don’t want to irritate the area so it’s good to go in with moisturizers that are super gentle and non-irritating as opposed to AHAs or retinols.
Dear Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream is also a great option. It’s a great alternative to Vaseline or petrolatum jelly. It’s a moisturizer that has a lot of great ingredients like shea butter and ceramides. It’s perfect for the winter because it creates a really nice seal on the skin. There might be some plant actives that might not agree with some people’s skin, but it soaks in so very well after dermaplaning.
Dear Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream -$21.90
Pacifica’s Wake Up Beautiful Sleep Mask is also great.
Pacifica’s Wake Up Beautiful Sleep Mask - $14.95
Sleep masks are basically an overnight moisturizer. This one by Pacifica has quinoa, snow mushrooms, and floral stem cells. It’s very soothing for the skin. As long as you’re okay with plant actives, this one is glorious.
If you have oily skin, and you’re looking for something that’s hydrating but not greasy especially for summer, the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream is great.
Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream -$23.60
This comes off as an aqua-like gel emulsion. It has hyaluronic acid in it but also water. The hyaluronic acid helps the skin hold in the water from the product. This gel is super nice and super hydrating. It works nicely for oily prone and acne-prone skin. It has a basic but efficacious list of ingredients. So, even though it will penetrate deeply after dermaplaning, there’s a low chance of it causing irritation to the skin.
Pace Yourself
Your hair does not grow back faster upon shaving so you don’t have to dermaplan overzealously.
Also, If you’re prone to irritation but also dermaplan, try waiting 3 or 4 days to introduce a new product to your skin.
And as always, apply your SPF afterward.
For more info on dermaplanning, watch here.