Did someone say paraben-free? Add to cart! 

Not so fast. What is the truth about parabens? Are paraben-free labels truly a selling point, or are they simply a marketing ploy?

What are parabens?

“Parabens are a family of related chemicals commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic products. Preservatives may be used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold, in order to protect both the products and consumers.” 

Parabens naturally exist in food. But, they are largely criticized because of their 1) “estrogenic activity” and 2) they are constantly criticized for being allergens that induce contact dermatitis. 

Are parabens bad for your skin?

Many people, especially those with conditions such as rosacea and eczema, say they've had bad experiences such as irritation, itching, and sensitivity to parabens. In addition,  parabens are regulated the EU, Japan, and other Southeast Asian nations, where officials have set maximum concentration standards.

In the EU and Southeast Asian nations, some parabens found in U.S. products such as isobutyl and isopropyl parabens are not permitted in any cosmetic products. 

So, is paraben-free better?

Research suggests that there is no marked difference in gentleness between paraben-free skincare and products that include them. Furthermore, research states that paraben allergies are relatively rare. However, experiences with different ingredients can be highly individualized.

Probably the most important takeaway is that there are many types of parabens, and if you suspect that parabens might be causing irritation, you can get a patch test at your dermatologist. Conversely, some reactions  can occur over time due to overexposure. So, there is such a thing as “using too much” of something and needing moderation. 

Are parabens absorbed through our skin?

While parabens have been known to influence estrogen receptors when ingested, the body is able to metabolize parabens, reducing the majority of the estrogenic effect. And when applied topically, estrogenic activity is especially low. 

Yes, estrogenic activity can affect your hormones and thyroid (the endocrine system), mucous membranes, and the digestive system (etc.), However, studies show that short-chain parabens, the most frequently used parabens in cosmetics, are of minor relevance to health issues.

Short-chain parabens prevent the growth of bacteria and mold. Methyl- and ethyl parabens are short-chain parabens, and they have weaker estrogenic effects than medium-chain esters like propylparaben. 

However, in response to consumer fears, many brands do not include parabens and opt-in for other preservative systems like phenoxyethanol. For example, even though  some brands are known for their lack of parabens, they may still commonly use phenoxyethanol.

What is phenoxyethanol?

Best avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding,  “phenoxyethanol is a colorless, clear, oily liquid with a faint aromatic odor at room temperature and a low water solubility and evaporation rate. It is produced by reacting phenol and ethylene oxide at a high temperature and pressure.”

This substance occurs naturally in green tea, a commonly used ingredient in both K-beauty and J-beauty. However, Japan does restrict its use in cosmetics to a 1% concentration.

Read here for more on J-beauty.

 

So, ultimately, preservatives are an essential part of skincare formulations. However, what works best for your skin may take some trial and error, and a dermatologist visit is a great resource for sorting this all out. 

 

Cover photo cred: Adobe Stock